Scaling New Heights: My First Peak Climbing Adventure on Mardi Himal

This is about my journey to climb the beautiful Mardi Himal. Rising 5,587 meters (18,330 ft) in Nepal's Annapurna region, Mardi Himal lies beneath the prominent Machhapuchhre peak, separated by a high pass. The trail, set in the Annapurna Conservation Area, is a new trekking route for tourists. Our group, including 15 classmates, a certified guide, a field supervisor, and another experienced guide, took on the Machhapuchhre Model Trek as part of a field study for my Bachelor’s degree. Few groups had completed this challenging new route before us.

We started our journey on September 8, 2024, leaving Kathmandu at 6:45 a.m. Everyone was excited, with bags, gear, and other essentials ready. We had breakfast at Naubise and continued toward Pokhara, stopping at Muglin for lunch. The day was long and hot. After arriving in Pokhara, we switched buses to reach Imu. Along the way, we passed beautiful rice fields and scenic patches of Kans grass, which looked so pretty that my friend and I, seated near the driver, got excited. The road was bumpy, and after two to three hours, we finally arrived in Imu. Although I thought we wouldn’t have to walk on the first day, we needed to hike to Prundung. So, after grabbing our belongings, we prepared for a short hike to Prundung.

After an hour’s walk, we reached Prundung at 6:30 p.m. We went to our rooms, changed, and joined a group briefing at 7:30 p.m. There, we met our team leaders, who were responsible for planning and guiding the trek. They explained the next day’s itinerary, and we introduced ourselves. After a nice dinner, we all went to bed, excited for the journey ahead.

On the second day, we woke early, had breakfast around 7 a.m., and started trekking toward Meshrom at 8 a.m., after receiving tika and well-wishes from our hosts. An hour in, we took a water break and adjusted our layers. The trail was beautiful, with glimpses of the mountains. We stopped at Metle, also called "Dahi Kharka" for the fresh curd we enjoyed there, which re-energized us before we continued to Medhaprung Kharka for lunch. Along the way, we visited a cave in Naudhoke, where we stopped to pray and light incense for safe travels. By 11:30 a.m., we reached Medhaprung Kharka at 2,600 meters and enjoyed a hearty meal of rice, daal, and veggies, staying well-hydrated to prevent altitude sickness.

After lunch, we prepared to hike uphill toward Meshrom, our second-day destination. As we entered the dense forest, rain started pouring, so we put on our raincoats. The trail became slippery, and leeches were everywhere. Unfortunately, I was wearing shorts, and the leeches kept latching onto my legs and shoes. My friends, fearless as ever, helped me remove them. Between the rain, slick path, endless stairs, and those annoying leeches, I was eager to reach Meshrom. At one point, a leech even crawled onto my back, which gave me goosebumps!

After almost three hours, we finally reached Meshrom around 3 p.m. I quickly washed up and changed—what a relief! We gathered in the dining hall, warmed ourselves by the fire, and enjoyed hot tea. With the rain cleared and time to spare, some of us sang songs, others played cards, while I went outside to find a spot with cell service to call my mother and let her know I was okay. Later, I sang a bit on my own (one of my favorite pastimes) and eventually settled in my room to watch a movie on my phone.

At 6:30 p.m., we gathered in the dining hall for our daily briefing. We shared highlights from the day and reminded each other to take care, as it was getting colder with the elevation. After the briefing and dinner, we went to bed, marking the end of our second day.

The next morning greeted us with stunning mountain views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Annapurna I, Machhapuchre, and Mardi Himal. It was breathtaking! After breakfast at 7 a.m., we set out for Sirka, our day’s destination. The trail was vibrant, with entire mountainsides covered in flowers, so we took photos and picked a few blooms along the way. After a two- to three-hour ascent, we reached Korchon (3,620 m) at 10 a.m. for lunch. As it was the last tea house with charging facilities, we made the most of it while enjoying the beautiful view, which included Kumai Danda in the distance.

At 11:30 a.m., we had lunch and rested briefly before resuming our trek to Sirka. The trail was narrow, with some sections affected by landslides—beautiful yet risky. We also encountered more leeches but came prepared, each of us using different tactics to keep them away. I wore my longest socks over my pants. Light rain started, so we kept moving with minimal breaks, just stopping for water and photos.

We reached Sirka just as heavy rain began. Since there were no tea houses from here on, we camped for the night. Thankfully, the support team had already set up kitchen and dining tents, keeping us dry. While some helped set up camp, the rest of us stayed warm inside with hot water and coffee. The wind was cold, so the coffee felt like a real treat. After setting up, we changed and freshened up.

Camping always feels new, even if it’s not the first time. With some time left before our 6 p.m. briefing, my friends and I played Uno, laughing and chatting together. Good friends really are a blessing.

It was still raining, so we wore our Gore-Tex jackets and headed to the dining tent for the briefing. Afterward, we enjoyed dinner together—fish curry and meat pickles, as it was the last day we could have meat. The Machhapuchhre area is sacred, and bringing meat or hunting is prohibited. Machhapuchhre Himal, one of Nepal’s holiest mountains, has never been climbed and is a symbol of purity and beauty.

After dinner, we settled into our tents for the night. It had been a long day, and at 3,800 meters, everyone was thankfully free from altitude sickness.

The next morning, Machhapuchhre greeted us with a stunning view. Stepping out to get hot water, I saw the mountain so close—it was thrilling! I exchanged “good mornings” with our guides, who were equally awed. My friend snapped a picture of me in that moment. The view was fleeting, as high-altitude weather changes quickly, but it was unforgettable. Some of my friends, still asleep, missed it, but we hoped to catch more views when the skies cleared.

After breakfast, we set off at 8:10 a.m. toward Nauche Kharka (4,300 m). The trail was steep, rocky, and challenging, and we needed to cross the Sirka pass, where strong winds made the climb even tougher. Once we reached the pass, we took a quick tea break with biscuits, then continued toward our lunch stop at Bunga (4,200 m), also a viewpoint for Machhapuchhre. We arrived around 11:45 a.m.

While waiting for lunch, my friends and I explored the area. To warm up, we sat by the fire in the kitchen, where we noticed something unusual drying nearby. The cook explained it was a snail, believed to have medicinal value and used to treat certain ailments. Surprisingly, she offered us some, explaining that it could sell for up to Rs. 1,500. I never expected to try snail, but curiosity got the best of me, and I gave it a go! It was a truly unique experience.

After lunch at 1:20 p.m. and a short rest, we began our ascent toward Nauche Kharka (4,300 m), navigating a challenging scramble trail that eventually led to a flat ridge path. We reached Nauche Kharka by 4:15 p.m., a bit later than some of our group who had already started setting up camp. We joined them for hot tea and a brief rest before changing and settling in.

The campsite was stunning, surrounded by mountains and vibrant wildflowers. Unfortunately, I couldn't take photos since my battery was dead, and I didn’t have a power bank. Despite light rain, we kept warm with soup and hot water, then attended our briefing and enjoyed a hearty dinner.

When we stepped out after dinner, the sky had cleared, revealing an incredible view of Machhapuchhre illuminated by moonlight, with stars scattered across the sky. It was truly breathtaking.

One of my friends jokingly said that Machhapuchhre looked like a sitting tiger, and to my surprise, I started to see it that way too! My friends couldn't see it, so they began teasing me instead—karma at its finest! We stayed outside for a while, admiring the stars and the mountain. From our vantage point, we could even see the city lights of Pokhara, which looked incredible. It felt amazing to be surrounded by nature, far from the hustle and bustle of city life. Eventually, we retreated to our camp to rest.

The next day was an acclimatization day, so we didn’t have to wake up early. We had breakfast in our tents and took it easy for a bit. Our goal was to reach High Camp, and we set off at 9:50 a.m. The narrow, steep trail was challenging, and we quickly grew tired, taking breaks for food and water along the way. We arrived at High Camp by 12:45 p.m., but just as we did, it started to rain, accompanied by small hailstones. Without hesitation, we decided to descend.

I had a slight headache from not drinking enough water, so I walked slowly and carefully along the ridge, as the trail wasn't very safe. After three hours, we returned to camp for lunch. We were advised not to sleep to avoid worsening our headaches, so we rested and played cards until dinner, then went to bed early.

The next day was dedicated to training and preparing for the summit. We had breakfast a bit later, around 8:30 a.m., due to the rain, and stayed in our tents until it cleared. Once the rain stopped, we put on our gear—helmets, ropes, carabiners, jumars, belay devices, boots, and crampons—and headed outside for practice.

We trained in rappelling (descending a rope) and jumaring (climbing up a rope using a mechanical device) and learned how to walk with crampons. After several hours of training, we had lunch and enjoyed some free time to explore. I took the opportunity to ask our guides questions for my report, spending time in the dining tent. Some rested, others worked on their reports, and a few roamed around. That day, we even spotted a rainbow, which filled us with joy.

Resting in such a beautiful place felt amazing. We had dinner at 6:30 p.m., followed by a briefing for summit day. Everyone was excited yet nervous. As it was my first time peak climbing, I had many thoughts and struggled to sleep. We decided to start our ascent at 1 a.m., with breakfast at 12:30 a.m.

As planned, we woke up early and had a hearty breakfast of oats topped with fruits and nuts. I finished the entire bowl since we needed the energy for climbing. After breakfast, we prepared our packed lunch, which included Snickers, an apple, puri, Oreos, dry fruits, and a boiled egg. We were fortunate on summit day; the weather was clear and pleasant, unlike previous days.

At 1:20 a.m., we carried our gear and set out for the summit. Walking under the stars with a clear view of the mountains was incredible. The trail was narrow, so we moved slowly and carefully. After reaching High Camp, we geared up and lit incense for safety. Witnessing the sunrise from there was breathtaking, as we were above the clouds. We took pictures and enjoyed the stunning view as we continued our ascent.

The terrain was extremely challenging, requiring us to boulder for nearly two to three exhausting hours. We kept climbing, but it felt endless. Finally, we reached the jumaring point, where we took a brief rest before beginning the next leg. Jumaring was tough, especially since it was my first time; I felt nervous at points, and it was one of the hardest things I’d ever done. Though physically exhausted, I pushed myself mentally to stay motivated.

While ascending, we suddenly heard someone shout, “ROCK!”—a huge rock was tumbling down toward us. We all tried to dodge it, but unfortunately, it struck one of my friends, leaving them unable to move. I felt a wave of fear and sadness.

As we climbed higher, loose rocks became more frequent, and it seemed only luck would keep us safe. Although everyone was fatigued, no one wanted to give up. At one point, we had to pause and wait, anchored by ropes, for nearly 45 minutes. Standing on the snowy mountain, I felt my legs weaken from the grueling 11-12 hours of climbing, but being so close to the summit kept me going.

Just 50 meters from the summit, our instructor, Gelje Sir, told us to descend, as the loose rocks and melting snow made it too risky to continue. Disappointed, we began rappelling down. It was terrifying to look down from that height, and I wasn’t feeling well—I even had a headache. Thankfully, my closest friend stayed by my side, taking care of me every step of the way.

The descent was grueling; the loose rocks and lack of a clear trail made it feel endless. At one point, exhaustion got the better of me, and I laughed and cried simultaneously, missing home and feeling overwhelmed. After another 5-6 hours, we finally made it back to camp. The relief was immense, and I collapsed inside, too drained to even eat or drink. I fell asleep shivering with fever, wrapped in two sleeping bags, and was warmed only by my friend’s care when he returned after dinner. It was an unforgettable, humbling experience.

The next morning, I woke feeling better but still weary. After tea and breakfast in the tent, we packed up and cleaned our camp area at Nauche Kharka, gathering all the trash before departing. We had a short briefing at 9:45, feeling heavy-hearted as one of our friends had to stay back, awaiting a heli rescue due to his condition.

Our descent to Korchan began with a lunch break at Bunga after two hours. The rest of the journey was a tough mix of steep uphills and downhills. We arrived at Korchan in the dark and rain, exhausted and soaked. After changing, we warmed up in the dining hall, enjoying hot soup and water, which was a real comfort after the long trek. Dinner that night included meat, a special treat that lifted everyone's spirits. We ate heartily, filling ourselves to the point of happy exhaustion.

After dinner, we celebrated our last night together with songs, dances, and Dohori led by Gelje sir, KP sir, and some friends. KP sir's heartfelt farewell speech made us emotional, and I felt deeply grateful for meeting such wonderful people.

The final day took us to Pokhara. After breakfast, we trekked to Imu, where our hosts bid us farewell with tika, flowers, cucumber, and tea. We took a bus from there, and by 5 pm, we arrived in Pokhara. At the hotel, a hot shower was pure bliss, and I finally charged my phone to call my mother, reassuring her that I was safe and sound.

This journey truly left me with memories to cherish and a promise to return to these mountains someday.

After a quick briefing and dinner, we had time to explore Pokhara. We were thrilled to learn we’d have an interview at the TAAN office the next day, along with some media coverage! That night, a few of us went lakeside, soaking in Pokhara's nightlife. We grabbed some drinks, enjoyed the view, and chatted by the lake. Even though we were full from dinner, we couldn’t resist trying some street food before heading back to the hotel.

The next morning, we were welcomed at the TAAN office with Khata(a traditional ceremonial scarf which symbolizes purity and compassion) and tea, wrapping up our interview and taking some photos. Then, it was time to board the bus back to Kathmandu. Most of us dozed off on the ride, exhausted but comfortable. When we finally reached Kathmandu, we all parted ways, each carrying incredible memories of Mardi Himal.

Completing my first peak climb was an unforgettable adventure filled with challenges and beauty. Although tough, it was one of the most rewarding experiences I’ve had, and I look forward to returning one day with loved ones. Thank you for sharing this journey with me!